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작성자타요 조회 5회 작성일 2022-05-28 09:04:24 댓글 0


Build A Waste Oil Heat Exchanger Part 3 | House Fiery Dragon

Final video of this build. I do modifications to keep from boiling the water.

Email : ThisNThatGarage1@gmail.com
Chuck Bailey : My father's been in the excvation business for 50 years we got a wall of bolt bins 12ft by 6ft with all kinds of odd ball stuff in them and enough draws, buckets, crates, and coffee cans full of fittings, valves, and bolts to fill two 55 gallon drums and some it is things my grandfather had saved
josh Hull : Loved all 3 of your boiler build video , I’ve been waiting for someone to come up with a great idea like this and document it as well as you have , I’m planning to build a smaller version to heat my outdoor pool all year round , I have some great ideas now thanks to your videos , keep up the good work
oxmachines : Hey sir, I love all your videos. Gets me inspired to go work on some junk. Good junk just to clarify. And yes I got me 3 or 4, 5 gallon buckets of bolted fittings and things IDK what they do. I find myself picking up washers or nuts or bolts dropped by others and putting in my pocket just like a penny. Lol.
Hodwooker : Just a comment on your exhaust stack. You have the joints in the exhaust pipe upside down. If you arrange the joints so that the male part of the pipe is on the top of the joint the condensation will not run down the pipe walls and flow out of the joint. This is the best way to set up any stove pipe. Doing this will trap the condensation in the exhaust stream and help boil it away. This is true of wood and coal heat as well, except in that case you are keeping the wood and coal creosote in the pipe. Makes the whole system look a lot better with out all the crud on the out side of the pipe. You maybe should consider using hard pipe instead of hose. Pipe will flow better and can be a lot easier to insulate. This is a very interesting video series. A lot of really good info and a well produced video. Thank you
Cheesy Nuts : Looks like good progress. I may have missed it.... what’s your average water temp?

My wood boiler shuts down at 180. I have noticed the amount of heat in the house is much better from 150-180. Much lower than that and it’s very noticeable.

Build a waste oil heat exchanger Part 1 | House Fiery Dragon

Watch me build a waste oil heat exchanger (Fiery Dragon)

Email : ThisNThatGarage1@gmail.com
Thomas Van Lanen : Dude! This is so cool! Finally I found a video on YouTube that shows I'm not alone, I recently bought the same metal shed as a room to house a waste oil stove, I'm still fabricating the stove and actually been testing it this weekend, making a barrel waste oil stove with double burner pots inside because the place I have to heat is more then 46.000 ft³, it'll be forced air through ventilation hoses tho. But that heat exchanger you build is crazy! Awesome stuff!
Victory First : Something came to mind when I seen you hard soldering all those connections. What is the chance using a bending jig would save you a lot of soldering and maybe cost ???How did you come up with the number of pipes to use for total heat scavenging ??? How about the copper pipe type, did you use K type ?? Did you start a wood fire to animal the copper tubing ??? How do you know the distance to cut the water circuit in half???? Listen fella about brain farts, we all get them, the trick is to be able to laugh at oneself which makes it all better. Beside's being human has a lot of downsides. Thank you for your time Sir. Good luck to you and peace too. VF
mason Heggie : Can’t wait to see part 2
Cheesy Nuts : I’m glad to have found you. Hell of a job!
scott ivie : What type of brazing tip do you use?

Build a Waste Oil Heat Exchanger Part 2 | House Fiery Dragon

I got the heat exchanger built and now it's time to work on the boiler room shanty and get this waste oil heater going.

Email : ThisNThatGarage1@gmail.com

Link to PLC training :

Richard Crumrine : Enjoying your channel. A " bunch " of ladybugs is called a " bloom " !
SM Jones : I would reiterate my comment from video1, try winding the coils BESIDE each other so the inputs are at the hot end and the outputs are at the cold end (not normal). As you have a PLC, you might want to have an "idle" position for the boiler. We ALWAYS ran our boilers at temp, or 10°-20° lower, even when the circulators were not pumping to the load. This greatly attenuated the accumulation of soot on the fire side and internal scaling on the water side. normally this would require either a three way valve or a second loop and another pump. You COULD have that be a function of temp in the house. With this kind of system, you can always chase the little gremlins down and eliminate them, if they are a major pain to remedy while being a minor problem to live with, you can just make a note and continue onward. Don't make the common mistake of just putting a big pump in to overpower everything. Temperature transfer is optimum when the liquid is moving just fast enough to not get too hot. I like what you have done, it works way better than I thought. The carbon is the biggest downfall to this type of heat exchanger. Our boilers were fire tube boilers with the water on the outside of the pipes. It's a lot easier cleaning them out. Open the end doors and run a spinning metal brush with water through the tubes and you are ready to continue. We only had to do this every 2-3 years as we ran natural gas. Just retired as the electronics tech (very wide job description) of a facilities maintenance team. I had 8800 inputs and outputs in our PLC network. 30yrs. Michael in Colorado.
Victory First : I was always told and told some more that ladybugs are a sign of good karma, good person, good luck. You must be the "MAN". I can tell you ate your spinach for the trailer hitch lift. You must have a stronger back than myself, P.S. hope it healed. Using a steel yard shed is just brilliant fella. Where is a good place to buy PLC and components ??? Thank you for the education on waste oil boiler science. I will use this wisely and stick it to the Gas and Oil companies who just love to screw us all. Peace and God bless too. VF
Josh Yandt : I think I may have gotten the ideas for my hot air furnace (not a boiler) from the same guy you read about. At least, some of the ideas on the operation of the burner and controls and electronics are the same.
What I have found by experience is this:
You don't need a preheater in the ammo can next to the tank. It's useless and a waste of energy. There is plenty of heat in the nozzle heater to make the oil hot enough to atomize. If the siphon nozzle has problems picking up the oil, you can simply add a little gas or diesel to your used oil to thin it out. I have never had trouble with my ammo can reservoir, unheated.
Next, your ammo can seems rather low in the video, several inches below the level of the nozzle. Not good. It should be about two inches from the level in the tank to the level of the nozzle. Think of an automotive paint sprayer.
Next I have an idea concerning the boiling of water in the circular tubes surrounding the burn chamber: delete them. If the top of the furnace is cool enough to touch, and the bottom is so hot that it is burning paint, then let some heat go to the top! After all, it is free oil.
Rene Larsen : more water through the system. more flow




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